In the aridness of San Pedro de Atacama

It took me 23 hours to get from Pisco Elqui to San Pedro de Atacama in the north of Chile. That is because I had to change buses twice and because of the delay caused by the road conditions around Copiapó and Antofagasta. A terrible flood had hit this arid region shortly before, as a result of unseasonal heavy rains. Rivers swelled and poured water and thick mud all over the area. To make it worse, the mud that now covers the towns, is contaminated as the water ran through this regions many mines before reaching the cities.

I was lucky that the roads were open again and when I peaked out of the window of my bus at 2 am I saw a ghost city covered in mud where bulldozers were busy cleaning up the streets.

Thankfully, the region’s main tourism spot, the area around San Pedro de Atacama20150408_145336, had not been hit by the floods and the blackout caused by these had been fixed when I got there. San Pedro de Atacama is a pleasant little tourist town 20150408_17525220150408_175905and the gateway to the Atacama desert and tours into Bolivia and its famous Salar de Uyuni.

The Atacama desert is said to be the driest place in the world. You can feel the aridness of this desert region with every pore of your body. Everything instantly becomes dry, your sinuses, your hair, your skin.

Hoewever, the area is stunning:

Guatin, aka the Valley of the cactus, is a beautiful valley that boasts the regions biggest cactuses – because they may not be removed here. Many of them are around 100 years old.  IMG_20150426_180710IMG_20150426_180753IMG_20150426_181027IMG_20150426_181057IMG_20150426_181247IMG_20150426_18131920150409_130211

Surprisingly, the inside of a cactus contains very solid and thus valuable wood. This one is worth around 800 USD!IMG_20150426_180934IMG_20150426_181122

The cactus fruit was a little harder to find as it was not the right season, but we finally got to try some. You’ve got to sqeeze it and you can eat the gluey green mass that is inside. It looks gross, but it’s said to be very healthy and tastes a bit like a sour kiwi.IMG_20150426_181218

From the upper entrance to the valley, just like from San Pedro and around, you can see the majestic snowcapped volcanoes on the border to Bolivia. IMG_20150426_181351

The Valle de la Luna and Valle de la Muerte are two of the most fascinating landscapes around SPdA…:

IMG_20150426_195409IMG_20150426_195448IMG_20150426_19553520150409_15542720150409_155535 With my roommate and soon to be travelmate Laura. I am glad you convinced me to leave a day earlier to the “Tour de Uyuni” :-)! Can’t imagine it without you!

IMG_20150426_195609IMG_20150426_195636IMG_20150426_195743IMG_20150426_195809IMG_20150426_195831IMG_20150426_195900Thanks to the recent rain there were more salt deposits at the surface and the landscape was whiter than usual.

IMG_20150426_19594920150409_174150IMG_20150426_200038IMG_20150426_200419IMG_20150426_200441This most striking Volcano is called Licancabur. Doesn’t  it look just like Mt. Ngauruhoe, aka Mt. Doom?20150409_192414IMG_20150426_200504IMG_20150426_200526

Pisco Elqui – relax, relax, relax

Heading further north I opted for a stopover in the Elqui Valley.20150404_142832I had a very relaxing three days at “El Tesoro de Elqui” (http://www.tesoro-elqui.cl/eng) in Pisco Elqui20150405_19370220150405_164431 – thanks to my brother, who knew about this heavenly place because he’d partied with the two german proprietresses ages ago in Braunschweig, Germany.20150404_15223120150406_13365920150406_134344

It was about time for a vacation, i.e. a break from travelling. Which is why I mostly dozed on a sunbed at the pool, ate, drank and slept.

My only exercise was a 4 km bike ride to the oldest Pisco distillery in Chile: “Los Nichos”. After all, I had to finally figure out how Pisco is made! Unfortunately I was too late for the last tour, but fortunately three girls from Viña del Mar turned up at the same time and they were just as diappointed as I was. After a free Pisco tasting the guy behind the counter showed compassion with us and simply gave us a free private tour (in spanish, that is, …)!20150405_17494220150405_171214

And here is why it is called Los Nichos: in the cellar the owner enjoyed drinking in the company of his friends. This cellar has several niches where the pisco bottles were stored to age and each friend was allocated a niche as a tomb, a place for his ghost to rest after death. One niche, however, remains empty. If I understood it correctly the man was simply too big for his niche…

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Chilean Food and Drinks

I really enjoyed travelling through Chile – also because of the Chilean food and drinks.

Here are some of my favourite dishes:

1) Ceviche (raw fish, occasianally mixed with other seafood): definitely one of my favourites, although some people (including Chileans) say that Peruvian Ceviche is better – I have yet to try and compare that.20150303_192655

 

2) Ice Cream: it really surprised me to find such amazing ice cream in Chile. My favourite stores are Mikafé in Hanga Roa, Easter Island, and Emporio la Rosa in Santiago. Favourite flavours: chocolate with toffee, dulce de leche, frambuesa menta, lúcuma and mango.20150228_16561820150331_192314 Oh and not to forget that fantastic avocado (yes, avocado) ice cream at Vinilo in Valparaiso.20150402_212954

 

 

 

3) Empanadas: particularly those filled with fresh tuna and seafood (Easter Island).

4) Lomo a lo pobre: loin cut of beef on a mountain of french fries and fried onions topped with a fried egg.20150331_145542

 

5) Alfajores: two round cookies with a sweet filling, usually dulce de leche, covered in glaced sugar, chocolate or coco.DSC_1781DSC_1837

 

 

6) Completo Italiano: a hot dog with tomatoes, mashed avocado and  mayonnaise.20150408_114033

 

7) Lomito Completo: Sandwich/ Burger with sliced cooked sirloin steak, mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, tomato and loads of sauerkraut. Try this at Fuente Alemana in Santiago! 20150401_14392120150401_143752

8) Machas con Parmesano: DSC_167120150401_200821

Favourite Drinks:

1)  Jugos Naturales: freshly made fruit juices, e.g. pineapple!

2) Beer and Wine (try the Carmenere as you will hardly find it anywhere else in the world)!

3) Pisco Sour: Pisco is a clear brandy that is destilled from white muscat grapes. A Pisco Sour is a Cocktail with Pisco, sugar, lime, one eggwhite and crushed ice.  20150401_195845

 

 

4) Terremoto (earthquake): young white wine, Pisco, sugar, pineapple ice cream…

Valpara(d)iso

After two days in Santiago I had enough of the big city life and made my way to Valparaiso, which is only a two hour busride away at the coast. I instantly fell in love with this city because of

its colorful houses IMG_20150421_123906IMG_20150421_123836IMG_20150421_123929IMG_20150421_124046IMG_20150421_123624IMG_20150421_123531IMG_20150421_123213
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the harbour,IMG_20150421_123039

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the incredible graffiti paintings,IMG_20150421_124157IMG_20150421_124137IMG_20150421_124020IMG_20150421_123954IMG_20150421_123715IMG_20150421_123647IMG_20150421_124222

 

 

 

 

 

 

the magnificent views IMG_20150421_124307IMG_20150421_123312IMG_20150421_123244IMG_20150421_123146IMG_20150421_123014

 

 

 

 

 

and its relaxed vibe.IMG_20150421_124246IMG_20150421_124111
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While it’s easy to explore the town on foot I again recommend to do the free walking tour (tour for tips), simply because you get loads of information about the city, its inhabitants, the graffiti and places to eat and drink – all from a “Porteño” (a person from Valparaiso). While some parts of the city are considered unsafe, it is very safe to walk around Cerro Allegre and Cerro Conception, where almost all hostels are located.

For a delicious meal with a great view go to “Fauna”, their roof terrace is amazing and there are lots of locals, too. Another great spot for dinner is “Vinilo”. For coffee and cake in a cute little garden go to “Café Flora”. (All on Cerro Conception)